![simply hdr free for iphone simply hdr free for iphone](https://getintopc.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/Tuneskit-iPhone-Data-Recovery-2022-Free-Download-GetintoPC.com_.jpg)
If the camera moved too much or there was movement in the shot you might get some weird ghosting effects, so it might take a few tries to get it right. ProHDR will take two images back to back, exposing for each of the boxes, then present you with a final image. Aim for about 80 percent) and then hit the shutter button. Drag one box to a bright point, another to a dark point (although I generally don’t pick the absolute darkest or brightest points, as it tends to make the image too over-processed and fake. The process is simple: upon launch you’re presented with a basic camera interface that contains two boxes. Some see HDR as an art, but I like to use it to solve problems This app has been around forever, and it’s yielded some incredible results. The stock HDR functionality is handy in a pinch if you’re faced with a situation where a window or a sky is simply too bright compared to everything else, flip it on and make sure to enable the “keep normal photo” option in “camera preferences.” However, if I’ve got the time and the right shooting conditions (little movement in the scene and a place to rest my phone) I like to to use ProHDR. The stock camera app nearly always wins when it comes to capturing the moment, especially with the burst mode of 5S.
![simply hdr free for iphone simply hdr free for iphone](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/14/03/1d/14031d74b7904b4463ddf35f4c7fdbf0.jpg)
It’s a powerful feature that certainly enables more shooting flexibility, but it comes at the cost of speed. Third-party apps like VSCO Cam and Camera+ allow you to go a step further and separate the exposure and focus metering. If you’re trying to capture a silhouette at sunset, or a macro shot against a window, AE / AF locking really comes in handy. By tapping and holding on a specific area of the frame, you can force the camera app to calculate exposure and focus from that specific point, ignoring the rest of the scene. Other features I lean on quite a bit are autofocus and autoexposure locking. I don’t strictly adhere to the rule, but it helps me break it deliberately, not accidentally. Here at The Verge, we use a nearly identical feature on our Canon C100s when shooting video. I’m a big fan of bold, symmetrical lines, and the grid feature helps me keep everything clean and lined up. The grid-overlay feature (Settings > Photos & Camera > Grid) is always enabled on my phone and keeps the rule of thirds in the front of my mind. It’s fast, accessible from nearly every corner of the OS, and has seen significant improvement over the years. While there are many, many camera-replacement apps available, the stock camera app is good enough for me in just about every situation. Nailing focus and exposure are the priorities, in that order